TUTORIAL
How to put a facing with a built in sleeve
case on an art quilt or embroidery
Sometimes
when you make a quilt, especially a small one, adding a binding, even a narrow
one, just isn’t the right thing to do. This is especially true if, like me, you
make ‘art’ quilts or small embroideries which are intended to hang on a wall or
be framed. So this is the illustrated tutorial of how I do it.
First
of all, you make the patchwork or whole cloth top; quilt through wadding to a backing fabric as
you wish then trim the edges to square it up. Press or starch as required.
For the
facing, I try to use a fabric that has some ‘body’. My samples were made with
Klona cotton from Cally Co in Cambridge. Backstitch at Burwash Manor Farm also stocks it. I used the same colour as the quilt
back but this isn’t compulsory.
This method is not that hard to do but writing down instructions
makes it look more complicated than it is. I hope the photos help.
My art
quilt was 20” square. You need to decide which way up it will viewed and we
start working on the two ‘sides’. That is the right and left.
I want
the facing to finish 4” wide. If your
piece is small, make the facing narrower. Scale it as you feel best, no one
will be checking.
Step 1:
Cut two pieces of facing fabric 5” wide and 24” long (remember by sample is
20”). On one of the long edges press
over ½” or less and give it a good press. You may need steam. Top stitch this
folded pressed edge. I always top stitch with a slightly longer stitch length
than normal because garments are always top stitched like this. Remember to move the needle position far left otherwise you will be sewing into nothing.
Top
stitch #10 foot on the Bernina, needle moved to far left
A #5 foot will be OK or even use a zipper foot. What ever you need to get close to the edge.
Step 2: Pin the facing to your quilt.
Press if desired. Tack if desired. Make sure the top edges line up. The photo shows the facing the wrong side up. and you can clearly see the turned back/topstitched edge at the bottom.
Step 3: Using a patchwork foot or
even a walking foot, stitch the facing to your quilt. Use a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Step 4: Press as you go, turning
over the facing and quilt and top stitch the facing. All right sides up. Again, use a #10 foot with the needle position far left.
Step 5: Turn everything over and this time encourage
the quilt to turn over slightly to the back. This is the tricky bit and you
will need to press this very carefully. I use steam to make it stay down. The close up photo now shows me pressing the reverse of the quilt. You can just make out the top stitched edge by the tip of the iron.
Step 6: Now turn everything with
the right side or quilt side on top. You can see the excess facing which can be trimmed off. On the wrong side, hand stitch the long side facing to
the back of the quilt.
Cut off this excess facing
Repeat all steps for the other side.
Step 7:
Now for the bottom edge of your quilt.
Cut another facing strip, 5” wide and 20” long. Press and top stitch as
before. Attach to the bottom edge of the quilt, press and top stitch just as
before. You may wish to machine on a label now.
The only difference here is that instead of
trimming off the excess facing (as in step 6) you tuck it in carefully before
hand stitching the facing down. This
needs to be done neatly as there is a lot of bulk at this point.
Snip a little of the wadding away if
needed. The gap between the edge of the
bottom facing, where it meets the side facing, will need to be closed with some
slip stitches. It will be obvious when you get there.
This photo shows the reverse of the quilt to the left hand side where the facing has been tucked in ready to be hand stitched in place.
Step 8: Basically you do it all over again for the
top edge of the quilt. BUT, make the facing longer and deeper. Mine was 6” wide
and 28” long. Repeat all the steps. However, as the excess facing is tucked in,
let it remain quite wide within the facing/sleeve so that it doesn’t get in the
way of a hanging rod.
This time, you do
not stitch up the gaps between the facing and the quilt otherwise you would not
be able to insert a hanging rod, etc. Again, it’s quite obvious when you get
there. This close up photo shows the top facing with the space created to fit a hanging bar.
This photo shows the label which I machined in place at step 7. You could leave this to the end and hand stitch a label in place. Being lazy, I machined it down.
Next is one of the blocks I made for my series of samples.
Here is another of the blocks I made. Using a 'wonky' log cabin technique; I did draw the designs first and used a foundation piecing method to ensure the blocks were exactly as they were on paper.
Finally, here are all the four panels on display during my July Open Studio. Not a great photograph but they did look good together in my marquee.